The weather is still threatening to be nasty, so today Marie, Kary and myself left the boat and took a bus to the neighbouring harbor of Budva.
As we waited for our bus we were happy to see all the buses in the station were modern and air-conditioned. Then ours turned up. The oldest bus you have ever seen, in fact I was surprised not to see chickens run out when they opened the door. Marie didn't look very impressed by the complimentary snacks left by the previous passengers either.
The trip to Budva only took about 45 minutes so it wasn't too bad. Budva is full of restaurants and bars, and you get the feeling that it doesn't get it's groove on until well after dark.
When we got there I was really hungry, but felt like something different. So when I saw a Halal Turkishesk establishment I persuaded the girls to stop there. Big mistake, I think it is only hours before the food poisoning sets in. It was horrible. Kary ordered fries, and what arrived was unidentifiable. I'm pretty sure they didn't use hot oil to cook them.
Eventually we found a great little bar on the water to sit and relax. The girls decided to have a swim but came back almost instantly because the water wasn't the 30 degrees that they were used to ;) So I ordered us a drink... and thinking I was funny ordered Marie a long island ice tea. It was a bit strong for her and I ended up having to drink it.... excuse me if the following recollections of the day are a bit fuzzy!
Afterwards we decided to walk around the corner to another bay. The water there was crystal clear and was the best beach we have been to yet!
We are now back at the boat and the clouds are getting very dark... I think we will be in for a storm tonight.
There are a few new boats which arrived today. We are all moored stern-to, but so close it feels like we are rafted together. We have russians on one side, and a croatian family on the other.
When we arrived yesterday we thought we were going to have to retrieve the bow lines, and organize the stern lines all by ourselves, but luckily the russian guy helped us out. The bow line he gave us meant that Dune sat rafted up to his boat. Not wanting to be so close we tried to reconfigure the lines. As part of the manuvere we used the bow thruster a little. The guy was muttering something in russian, I have a feeling it wasn't words of encouragement. In retrospect it was a redundant move, but it was funny to hear the russian equivalent of "Mama Mia"!
Monday, August 30, 2010
Wednesday, August 25, 2010
Montenegro - Kotor
We travelled south down the coast towards Montenegro. There were some nice places still left to see in Croatia, but we were not allowed to stop there as we had already cleared customs. They have a radar station keeping track of everyone to make sure you don't deviate from your course.
Eventually we crossed the border between Croatia and Montenegro. The border is a peninsula which we rounded and proceeded to the first customs port which was Zelenika. We pulled up to the customs dock, the wind had picked up a bit, so we had to round up into the wind and dock port side. The dock was quite obviously designed for cruise liners with its huge rubber fenders. But we found a nice spot nestled between them. I jumped off the boat to see customs who directed me to see the harbormaster.
After checking the ships documents we were issued with a 7 day cruising license (vignette). I then went back to the customs office. The customs office had both the port police and customs officials there. They were very friendly and started talking to me about New Zealand wine. He was speaking in a mix of english and Montenegrin (similar to Croatian), so I couldn't understand much. But I got the idea that we liked drinking lol! I bet he was angling for a free bottle of NZ wine.
He asked me where we were planning on going, and suggested that we visit Kotor.
After we cleared customs we decided to take his advice and visit Kotor.
Kotor is a town nestled on the eastern side of the main Montenegro harbor. As you progress through huge mountains appear on all sides. Houses litter the coastline but are close to the water. The height of the mountains are incredible, and dwarf the settlements below.
Kotor itself is built around a castle and it's fortifications continue up the mountain sides.
When we arrived we though we could anchor but we were directed to moor at the pier. The price was only 45 euros a night which was quite cheap compared to what we were used to. And for the first time since Rimini, we had shore power and water!!
The following day Marie and I walked up the mountain fortifications. We did it in the middle of the day which was blisteringly hot!
We ended up staying a couple of nights in Kotor, just relaxing and enjoying the scenary.
Darren left the boat to continue his adventures by land. Thanks dude, it was a blast!
The girls and I decided to take the opportunity and clean the boat before continuing.
I also mounted our EPIRB and fixed the floor boards in Darren's room.
We left Kotor and motored around to a neighbouring bay called Morinj, where we had our first swim in Montenegro.
Eventually we crossed the border between Croatia and Montenegro. The border is a peninsula which we rounded and proceeded to the first customs port which was Zelenika. We pulled up to the customs dock, the wind had picked up a bit, so we had to round up into the wind and dock port side. The dock was quite obviously designed for cruise liners with its huge rubber fenders. But we found a nice spot nestled between them. I jumped off the boat to see customs who directed me to see the harbormaster.
After checking the ships documents we were issued with a 7 day cruising license (vignette). I then went back to the customs office. The customs office had both the port police and customs officials there. They were very friendly and started talking to me about New Zealand wine. He was speaking in a mix of english and Montenegrin (similar to Croatian), so I couldn't understand much. But I got the idea that we liked drinking lol! I bet he was angling for a free bottle of NZ wine.
He asked me where we were planning on going, and suggested that we visit Kotor.
After we cleared customs we decided to take his advice and visit Kotor.
Kotor is a town nestled on the eastern side of the main Montenegro harbor. As you progress through huge mountains appear on all sides. Houses litter the coastline but are close to the water. The height of the mountains are incredible, and dwarf the settlements below.
Kotor itself is built around a castle and it's fortifications continue up the mountain sides.
When we arrived we though we could anchor but we were directed to moor at the pier. The price was only 45 euros a night which was quite cheap compared to what we were used to. And for the first time since Rimini, we had shore power and water!!
The following day Marie and I walked up the mountain fortifications. We did it in the middle of the day which was blisteringly hot!
We ended up staying a couple of nights in Kotor, just relaxing and enjoying the scenary.
Darren left the boat to continue his adventures by land. Thanks dude, it was a blast!
The girls and I decided to take the opportunity and clean the boat before continuing.
I also mounted our EPIRB and fixed the floor boards in Darren's room.
We left Kotor and motored around to a neighbouring bay called Morinj, where we had our first swim in Montenegro.
Cavtat - Clearing Customs
Today we are leaving Croatia and heading to Montenegro.
The best place to carry out exit formalities is a town further down the coast called Cavtat.
We arrived in Cavtat and decided to anchor to stock up on provisions before clearing customs.
After which we proceeded over to the customs dock. There were quite a few boats waiting, and they started to raft up to each other. There was a space available between the rafter's and the next boat which was moored stern-to. So we decided to drop anchor and back into the space. There was a guy there ready to help, so we threw him the stern lines. I pulled up the anchor a little and we were sitting nicely. Well done crew!
Clearing customs took forever! I was directed to see the port police, who then instructed me to see the harbormaster. There was a captain in the harbormasters office whose documents were not in order so I had to wait until they had sorted him out. I then went back to the customs office (port police) who then noticed that we had 3 people on our crew list, but 4 people were leaving. Kary had just joined the boat. So he then sent me back to the harbormaster, who was out to lunch! I got Kary added to the crew list and went back to the customs office.
They then cleared us to leave... Whew!
The best place to carry out exit formalities is a town further down the coast called Cavtat.
We arrived in Cavtat and decided to anchor to stock up on provisions before clearing customs.
After which we proceeded over to the customs dock. There were quite a few boats waiting, and they started to raft up to each other. There was a space available between the rafter's and the next boat which was moored stern-to. So we decided to drop anchor and back into the space. There was a guy there ready to help, so we threw him the stern lines. I pulled up the anchor a little and we were sitting nicely. Well done crew!
Clearing customs took forever! I was directed to see the port police, who then instructed me to see the harbormaster. There was a captain in the harbormasters office whose documents were not in order so I had to wait until they had sorted him out. I then went back to the customs office (port police) who then noticed that we had 3 people on our crew list, but 4 people were leaving. Kary had just joined the boat. So he then sent me back to the harbormaster, who was out to lunch! I got Kary added to the crew list and went back to the customs office.
They then cleared us to leave... Whew!
Tuesday, August 24, 2010
Dubrovnik
The last time we had visited Dubrovnik the weather wasn't good and there was no way we could anchor outside the castle in the old town.
This time the sea was calm and we found a nice spot just outside the channel entrance.
We took the tender in to have a wander around and take in the sights. Marie and I decided to do the walk around the castle wall.
As you walk around the wall you can see on one side the people bustling around inside, and outside, picturesque views of the bay. Fantastic!
After we had finished we joined Darren for a Pivo (Beer), and then had some dinner at a Irish bar of all places.
Marie left us to take a bus to the Airport to pick up Kary.
Darren and I had a few drinks and found a bar which had live jazz. It was great, I even bought their CD! (we needed music for the boat)
We made friends with a couple of guys who were visiting from Spain... real characters, who were only in Dubrovnik for the naturalist beaches. Europeans, gotta love em!
Marie and Kary turned up, and disappeared again to grab dinner. Afterwards we jumped in the tender and cruised back to the boat.
The next morning a guy arrived on a boat and let us know that our anchorage would cost 50 euros, and that we better take off. Woohoo nice guy!
This time the sea was calm and we found a nice spot just outside the channel entrance.
We took the tender in to have a wander around and take in the sights. Marie and I decided to do the walk around the castle wall.
As you walk around the wall you can see on one side the people bustling around inside, and outside, picturesque views of the bay. Fantastic!
After we had finished we joined Darren for a Pivo (Beer), and then had some dinner at a Irish bar of all places.
Marie left us to take a bus to the Airport to pick up Kary.
Darren and I had a few drinks and found a bar which had live jazz. It was great, I even bought their CD! (we needed music for the boat)
We made friends with a couple of guys who were visiting from Spain... real characters, who were only in Dubrovnik for the naturalist beaches. Europeans, gotta love em!
Marie and Kary turned up, and disappeared again to grab dinner. Afterwards we jumped in the tender and cruised back to the boat.
The next morning a guy arrived on a boat and let us know that our anchorage would cost 50 euros, and that we better take off. Woohoo nice guy!
Mljet - Ulysses Caves
After breakfast we set out to find the Ulysses caves. We had a fair idea where they were, but didn't know exactly. The caves were meant to be only accessible by boat. As we progressed it was obvious that we had gone to far, so Darren spotted a fisherman, and proceeded to take tender over to see him. Speaking no english, Darren eventually understood that the caves were back about 6km.
We turned around and eventually spotted some people sitting on rocks. If you didn't see the people, you would never know that there was anything to see. We got close and dropped the anchor... I reversed back until we were close to the rocks and jumped in to secure a stern line to the shore.
We were set, sitting right in front of the cave entrance. We jumped in with our goggles and flippers and swam through the cave.
As you swam in it didn't look very spectacular, but as you neared the end of the cave there were millions of fish swimming all around you.
When you turned around the true beauty of the place revealed itself. The sunlight from the entrance of the cave shone through, and the colour of the water took your breath away, it was like something you would see in a movie. Absolutely stunning!
We spent the afternoon there swimming, diving.. and the odd halyard swing.
It was then time to head to Dubrovnik about 30nm down the coast. Today we were picking up Kary, Marie's niece who was arriving from Brazil.
We turned around and eventually spotted some people sitting on rocks. If you didn't see the people, you would never know that there was anything to see. We got close and dropped the anchor... I reversed back until we were close to the rocks and jumped in to secure a stern line to the shore.
We were set, sitting right in front of the cave entrance. We jumped in with our goggles and flippers and swam through the cave.
As you swam in it didn't look very spectacular, but as you neared the end of the cave there were millions of fish swimming all around you.
When you turned around the true beauty of the place revealed itself. The sunlight from the entrance of the cave shone through, and the colour of the water took your breath away, it was like something you would see in a movie. Absolutely stunning!
We spent the afternoon there swimming, diving.. and the odd halyard swing.
It was then time to head to Dubrovnik about 30nm down the coast. Today we were picking up Kary, Marie's niece who was arriving from Brazil.
Monday, August 23, 2010
Mljet
This afternoon we left Korcula and travelled across to the island of Mljet. Darren wanted to see the blue caves on the opposite side of the island. Normally you would avoid that coast because there is no shelter and is very exposed, but as luck
had it the weather was very good and our good old Navtex told us that the outlook for the following 24 hours was excellent.
We entered the bay where we intended to spend the night, and according to both the chart and the chart plotter there was enough depth to get around the corner into a smaller lagoon. I really didn't trust it, and decided to anchor and swim over to see how deep the inlet really was.
As I predicted it was shallow, I could stand up to my waist! So we stayed where we were.
Darren decided to take the tender around to a neighbouring bay. On the charts it said the area was prohibited and you couldn't enter. But he wasn't concerned and took off, he eventually returned with news that he had found a small village and he had made arrangements for us to have dinner there later that evening.
We all piled into the tender and set out for dinner. I have no idea how Darren found the inlet because it was hidden. The rocks on both sides camouflaged the entrance and it just looked like the bay continued around. As you got closer the entrance appeared. It felt like we were in a pirate movie! There was a big sign with a propeller with a cross through it symbolizing that no engines were allowed, but Darren had seen fishermen going up the inlet with their engines, so we did the same.
We pulled into a tiny village, and had a great dinner surrounded by wildlife. Next to the table were bushes covered in flowers with tiny hummingbird's flying around savoring the nectar. Huge moths were flying around (you could mistake them for birds!), one of which got stuck in the netting surrounding the light above the table, it fluttered with futility covering us and our wine glasses with the dust from it's wings.
Not a huge fan of seafood, I had grilled squid which was fantastic. The prices here were far better than anywhere we had been before.
The best nights we have had have been at places off the beaten track, away from the glitzy tourist spots.
had it the weather was very good and our good old Navtex told us that the outlook for the following 24 hours was excellent.
We entered the bay where we intended to spend the night, and according to both the chart and the chart plotter there was enough depth to get around the corner into a smaller lagoon. I really didn't trust it, and decided to anchor and swim over to see how deep the inlet really was.
As I predicted it was shallow, I could stand up to my waist! So we stayed where we were.
Darren decided to take the tender around to a neighbouring bay. On the charts it said the area was prohibited and you couldn't enter. But he wasn't concerned and took off, he eventually returned with news that he had found a small village and he had made arrangements for us to have dinner there later that evening.
We all piled into the tender and set out for dinner. I have no idea how Darren found the inlet because it was hidden. The rocks on both sides camouflaged the entrance and it just looked like the bay continued around. As you got closer the entrance appeared. It felt like we were in a pirate movie! There was a big sign with a propeller with a cross through it symbolizing that no engines were allowed, but Darren had seen fishermen going up the inlet with their engines, so we did the same.
We pulled into a tiny village, and had a great dinner surrounded by wildlife. Next to the table were bushes covered in flowers with tiny hummingbird's flying around savoring the nectar. Huge moths were flying around (you could mistake them for birds!), one of which got stuck in the netting surrounding the light above the table, it fluttered with futility covering us and our wine glasses with the dust from it's wings.
Not a huge fan of seafood, I had grilled squid which was fantastic. The prices here were far better than anywhere we had been before.
The best nights we have had have been at places off the beaten track, away from the glitzy tourist spots.
Sunday, August 22, 2010
Korcula
The next stop was Korcula (on the island of.. you guessed it "Korula"). As we entered the bay where we intended on anchoring, the wind picked up and as we were getting into position to lay it down a gust of wind pushed us side on and pushed
us towards the shallows... I had to power between two anchored yachts who looked a bit concerned... I have it all under control lads!
Straight away we laid it down and were set for the night. Almost immediately the port authority visited us to retrieve mooring fees... agh!
Korcula was nice, but the problem is "every" town that we visit is beautiful, you almost become numb to it.
I found some art for sale which I loved, but that is a bit of a luxury. We are on a budget after all!
us towards the shallows... I had to power between two anchored yachts who looked a bit concerned... I have it all under control lads!
Straight away we laid it down and were set for the night. Almost immediately the port authority visited us to retrieve mooring fees... agh!
Korcula was nice, but the problem is "every" town that we visit is beautiful, you almost become numb to it.
I found some art for sale which I loved, but that is a bit of a luxury. We are on a budget after all!
Saturday, August 21, 2010
Hvar
It is hard to believe that after all the time we have spent in Croatia that we had not yet been to Hvar! We had been around it many times, but had never stopped.
Hvar is the famous "postcard" town on the island of "Hvar". We have had good luck with anchoring, we normally only have to anchor once, on the odd occasion twice. This was no exception, but this time we were asked to move so that we didn't obstruct traffic. No problem, we dropped the anchor in a new spot, it took a bit to catch but we were set.
Other boats didn't have quite as much luck, and spent literally hours trying to anchor. At one point someone thought they were ok, then when the wind changed they hit another boat who didn't have quite as much chain out as them.
It was all very entertaining.
Hvar is a bustling town with thousands of people walking around, and hundred's of bar and restaurants. Sitting in a commanding position on a hill overlooking the town is a castle. At night it is lit up, and the scene is breathtaking.
The number of boats coming in and out of the harbor made it difficult to sleep (not to mention the music). The last straw was a ferry powering out of the bay in the morning whose wake keeled us right over... it was time to get up!
Hvar is the famous "postcard" town on the island of "Hvar". We have had good luck with anchoring, we normally only have to anchor once, on the odd occasion twice. This was no exception, but this time we were asked to move so that we didn't obstruct traffic. No problem, we dropped the anchor in a new spot, it took a bit to catch but we were set.
Other boats didn't have quite as much luck, and spent literally hours trying to anchor. At one point someone thought they were ok, then when the wind changed they hit another boat who didn't have quite as much chain out as them.
It was all very entertaining.
Hvar is a bustling town with thousands of people walking around, and hundred's of bar and restaurants. Sitting in a commanding position on a hill overlooking the town is a castle. At night it is lit up, and the scene is breathtaking.
The number of boats coming in and out of the harbor made it difficult to sleep (not to mention the music). The last straw was a ferry powering out of the bay in the morning whose wake keeled us right over... it was time to get up!
Thursday, August 19, 2010
Split - Spinut - Kastela
Today we travelled to Split. Having anchored in Split harbor before I knew that because of the large passenger ferries the boat would be rolling a lot, so we went around the corner to a small bay called "Spinut".
The wind was quite strong, so I stayed with the boat while Darren and Marie went ashore to go into Split.
Marie had booked us both in to see a dentist at 8.30am the following morning.
I picked up my temporary visa from Nina at Bach Yachting, the broker we purchased the boat from. It ended up being a bit of a reunion because the skipper who helped us export/import the boat turned up while we were there.
We visited a Marina shop who directed us to their Mercury service agent, who luckily was located in Spinut! After we got back to the boat we moved to the next bay and I rowed ashore with the engine. The service agent was actually an old guy out the
back of a garage. But he was very helpful, and fixed the outboard throttle for 250 kuna ($65 NZD), including a full service!
After we picked the outboard up, we set off for Marina Kastela which was across the bay. The charter company (Sail Croatia) who used to own the boat had a replacement shower unit for the boat for us to pick up.
Marie and I took the opportunity to visit Christopher and his wife, unfortunately they were not in the marina.
I installed the new deck shower unit, and we now have hot/cold water to rinse off after a swim. Luxury!
Darren found that his shower pump was not working, so we worked on pulling it out. I purchased a new one from one of the Marine shops in Split, and didn't think to look at the price.... $750 NZD OUCH!!
We anchored just outside of Marina Kastela. It was friday night so all of the charter boats were coming back from there week at sea. Each charter company has over 30 yachts, and there are 5 or more charter companies in the Marina.
So you can imagine how many boats we saw coming in, it was very entertaining. Especially the boat with the girl who stripped off on the bow as they were coming in!
The following day we anchored in Split harbor, did a few errands, and had lunch at the famous "Black Cat" cafe, which Rob and Ruth found during their stay! Mmmmm delicious.
The wind was quite strong, so I stayed with the boat while Darren and Marie went ashore to go into Split.
Marie had booked us both in to see a dentist at 8.30am the following morning.
I picked up my temporary visa from Nina at Bach Yachting, the broker we purchased the boat from. It ended up being a bit of a reunion because the skipper who helped us export/import the boat turned up while we were there.
We visited a Marina shop who directed us to their Mercury service agent, who luckily was located in Spinut! After we got back to the boat we moved to the next bay and I rowed ashore with the engine. The service agent was actually an old guy out the
back of a garage. But he was very helpful, and fixed the outboard throttle for 250 kuna ($65 NZD), including a full service!
After we picked the outboard up, we set off for Marina Kastela which was across the bay. The charter company (Sail Croatia) who used to own the boat had a replacement shower unit for the boat for us to pick up.
Marie and I took the opportunity to visit Christopher and his wife, unfortunately they were not in the marina.
I installed the new deck shower unit, and we now have hot/cold water to rinse off after a swim. Luxury!
Darren found that his shower pump was not working, so we worked on pulling it out. I purchased a new one from one of the Marine shops in Split, and didn't think to look at the price.... $750 NZD OUCH!!
We anchored just outside of Marina Kastela. It was friday night so all of the charter boats were coming back from there week at sea. Each charter company has over 30 yachts, and there are 5 or more charter companies in the Marina.
So you can imagine how many boats we saw coming in, it was very entertaining. Especially the boat with the girl who stripped off on the bow as they were coming in!
The following day we anchored in Split harbor, did a few errands, and had lunch at the famous "Black Cat" cafe, which Rob and Ruth found during their stay! Mmmmm delicious.
Wednesday, August 18, 2010
Primosten
Our next stop was Primosten which is a town on the mainland. We anchored in a prime position right beside the beach. We thought that we were obstructing the channel a little, but then other boats came in and anchored around us. What trend setters!
A few yachts wanted to enter the marina but there wasn't room, but they still accommodated them by rafting them all up together at the end of the pier stern-to against the rocks... eeek! No one really cares with charter yachts, which made me think about what people used to do with Dune... I quickly thought about something else!
We spent the afternoon swimming and watching the boats come in and out of the harbor.
We rowed ashore and had dinner at a seafood restaurant. It was very pleasant! The town is known for 2 things, it's lack of rainfall, and its Babic wine. Fearing dehydration I quickly ordered a bottle of wine.
A few yachts wanted to enter the marina but there wasn't room, but they still accommodated them by rafting them all up together at the end of the pier stern-to against the rocks... eeek! No one really cares with charter yachts, which made me think about what people used to do with Dune... I quickly thought about something else!
We spent the afternoon swimming and watching the boats come in and out of the harbor.
We rowed ashore and had dinner at a seafood restaurant. It was very pleasant! The town is known for 2 things, it's lack of rainfall, and its Babic wine. Fearing dehydration I quickly ordered a bottle of wine.
Tuesday, August 17, 2010
Dugi Otok - Mala Proversa
The next port of call was to be Sali, but when we got there the marina was full and there wasn't anywhere sheltered to anchor so we continued on to the southern end of the island to a bay called Mala Proversa.
The bay was very quiet (until we sparked up the generator that is) with only a few boats anchored there. The water was crystal clear, and there were plenty of small fish swimming around the boat.
In the morning Darren shouted for me to get up, Mala Proversa was part of a national park, and a park ranger was collecting mooring fees from the surrounding boats (whose owners were also shouting... but at the ranger).
So we slowly turned on the motor, pulled up the anchor (being sure not to look at the ranger) and departed. At first it looked like the ranger was following us, but he then changed course. Whew!
The bay was very quiet (until we sparked up the generator that is) with only a few boats anchored there. The water was crystal clear, and there were plenty of small fish swimming around the boat.
In the morning Darren shouted for me to get up, Mala Proversa was part of a national park, and a park ranger was collecting mooring fees from the surrounding boats (whose owners were also shouting... but at the ranger).
So we slowly turned on the motor, pulled up the anchor (being sure not to look at the ranger) and departed. At first it looked like the ranger was following us, but he then changed course. Whew!
Monday, August 16, 2010
Dugi Otok - Bozava
We left Mari Lozenj and started heading down the coast. Darren wanted to visit a place called Bozava, on the island of Dugi Otok. There was a sizable ocean swell coming through with a cross wind so we had to deal with beam seas which was a little uncomfortable.
Eventually I decided to duck behind an island to avoid the swell. It was going to take us a little longer, but the journey would be far more enjoyable.
Darren had a sleep for a few hours, and came up on our approach to Bozava. We anchored 200 metres from the township. After a quick dip we piled into the tender to see what Bozava had to offer.
Seafood in Croatia is insanely expensive, and this place was no exception. We found a restaurant on the dock, they didn't have any tables outside, so they grabbed a table and placed it on the boardwalk for us. Fantastic!
After a satisfying meal, we jumped in the tender and eased our way back to the boat, for a good nights sleep.
Eventually I decided to duck behind an island to avoid the swell. It was going to take us a little longer, but the journey would be far more enjoyable.
Darren had a sleep for a few hours, and came up on our approach to Bozava. We anchored 200 metres from the township. After a quick dip we piled into the tender to see what Bozava had to offer.
Seafood in Croatia is insanely expensive, and this place was no exception. We found a restaurant on the dock, they didn't have any tables outside, so they grabbed a table and placed it on the boardwalk for us. Fantastic!
After a satisfying meal, we jumped in the tender and eased our way back to the boat, for a good nights sleep.
Friday, August 13, 2010
Mari Losenj
We arrived in Mari Losenj an outer island of southern Istria at 6pm. The port was full of boats and the Marina was overflowing. Our pilot guide indicated that the customs office was in the main township, so we backed up to the dock and I jumped off with our papers. Darren and Marie circled in the bay until I got back.
Again finding the port authorities proved difficult, and the tourist office directed me to the wrong building.
I got back on the boat, and we decided to anchor until we could figure out where to go. While anchoring a police boat went by twice. I waved at them frantically but they weren't interested in coming over to help.
We went ashore (which is a big no no) to have a meal. We found a restaurant owned by a couple of brothers. Each of the brothers obviously thought the other brother had taken our order because everyone else was served but us. Eventually we got our meals and some wine, contented we went back to the boat.
The next morning I went ashore and found the "real" harbormasters office. They told me where the customs office was and said we had to see them first. So we pulled up the anchor and docked at the customs pier. There was a little confusion about Marie's Visa, but after showing them that she had already been in Croatia a month earlier, he seemed content to let us in.
The next step was to go and see the harbormaster, which was very straight forward because we already had a valid cruising licence (Vignette) and had already paid our tourist tax from our previous stay.
We tried to start the outboard engine, which if you remember was lost and then recovered after a storm in Italy. It wouldn't start, and after taking it to pieces found that the throttle had broken. Until it was fixed we could only row... luckily we had Darren :)
We stayed in Mari Losenj for 3 days just chilling out.
All this time I was unable to use my new credit card because the BNZ would not put a PIN on it. They insisted that I didn't need one and that I could just sign for purchases. But all terminals in Europe require a PIN for cards with chips on them! After 8 calls to BNZ, they conceded and directed me to talk to Visa International who sent me a temporary visa, which would arrive in Split in a few days.
Again finding the port authorities proved difficult, and the tourist office directed me to the wrong building.
I got back on the boat, and we decided to anchor until we could figure out where to go. While anchoring a police boat went by twice. I waved at them frantically but they weren't interested in coming over to help.
We went ashore (which is a big no no) to have a meal. We found a restaurant owned by a couple of brothers. Each of the brothers obviously thought the other brother had taken our order because everyone else was served but us. Eventually we got our meals and some wine, contented we went back to the boat.
The next morning I went ashore and found the "real" harbormasters office. They told me where the customs office was and said we had to see them first. So we pulled up the anchor and docked at the customs pier. There was a little confusion about Marie's Visa, but after showing them that she had already been in Croatia a month earlier, he seemed content to let us in.
The next step was to go and see the harbormaster, which was very straight forward because we already had a valid cruising licence (Vignette) and had already paid our tourist tax from our previous stay.
We tried to start the outboard engine, which if you remember was lost and then recovered after a storm in Italy. It wouldn't start, and after taking it to pieces found that the throttle had broken. Until it was fixed we could only row... luckily we had Darren :)
We stayed in Mari Losenj for 3 days just chilling out.
All this time I was unable to use my new credit card because the BNZ would not put a PIN on it. They insisted that I didn't need one and that I could just sign for purchases. But all terminals in Europe require a PIN for cards with chips on them! After 8 calls to BNZ, they conceded and directed me to talk to Visa International who sent me a temporary visa, which would arrive in Split in a few days.
Adriatic Crossing
To escape the eastern coast of Italy we decided to cross the Adriatic Sea back to Croatia. Marie's niece Kary was going to join us in Dubrovnik on the 24th August, and we still had 12 days left on our Croatian Visas.
Darren is half Croatian, so it was a great opportunity for him to see his "homeland" by sea.
We left Rimini at 6am, and headed out across the Adriatic Sea. The weather was good, and we were running with the wind most of the way across. The forecast said that there were storms following us, so not to be caught out I decided to keep the motor on.
The trip across took us 12 hours. Croatia welcomed us with thundershowers but it was great to be back!
Darren is half Croatian, so it was a great opportunity for him to see his "homeland" by sea.
We left Rimini at 6am, and headed out across the Adriatic Sea. The weather was good, and we were running with the wind most of the way across. The forecast said that there were storms following us, so not to be caught out I decided to keep the motor on.
The trip across took us 12 hours. Croatia welcomed us with thundershowers but it was great to be back!
Thursday, August 12, 2010
Leaving Rimini - Customs Fiasco
Darren had joined us, my new passport and credit card had arrived, so we were ready to leave Rimini!
But leaving was easier said than done, first we needed to clear customs. Unfortunately for us finding someone to stamp our passports proved to be difficult. Italy has 6 different arms of the Police, each directing us to go and see one of the others.
We must have walked 10Km's visiting all of the officiaries.
So we visited:
1. Coastguard
2. Police (Carabinieri)
3. Police (Guardia di Finanza)
4. Police (Polizia di Stato)
5. City Council
6. Police (Polizia di Stato - Immigration Department)
7. Harbormaster Office (who told us to go to the Airport!)
Finally we gave up, and stopped for lunch. We went back to the Marina, and notified them that we would be staying another night. They were surprised to see us, "You haven't left yet?".
The girl behind the counter was Brazilian and was incredibly helpful. She made a few phone calls and asked us when we would like to leave, I said 5am the following morning. So she arranged for customs to meet us at the boat at 1am!
I stayed up to meet them, Darren made his best effort, but faded and slept through the customs check.
So we were now cleared to leave Italy! Whew!
But leaving was easier said than done, first we needed to clear customs. Unfortunately for us finding someone to stamp our passports proved to be difficult. Italy has 6 different arms of the Police, each directing us to go and see one of the others.
We must have walked 10Km's visiting all of the officiaries.
So we visited:
1. Coastguard
2. Police (Carabinieri)
3. Police (Guardia di Finanza)
4. Police (Polizia di Stato)
5. City Council
6. Police (Polizia di Stato - Immigration Department)
7. Harbormaster Office (who told us to go to the Airport!)
Finally we gave up, and stopped for lunch. We went back to the Marina, and notified them that we would be staying another night. They were surprised to see us, "You haven't left yet?".
The girl behind the counter was Brazilian and was incredibly helpful. She made a few phone calls and asked us when we would like to leave, I said 5am the following morning. So she arranged for customs to meet us at the boat at 1am!
I stayed up to meet them, Darren made his best effort, but faded and slept through the customs check.
So we were now cleared to leave Italy! Whew!
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