Today the weather report looked more promising so we all got up early and got the boat ready to depart.
After the engine was warmed up we eased out of our mooring, and everything looked fine. Then Marie pointed to a bow line trailing from under the boat.
At first I thought it was caught around the prop, but I soon realized that it was actually stuck in the bow thruster!
So there we were sitting out in the channel tethered to the dock by an underwater rope. After numerous attempts diving under the boat, I managed to release the rope from the bow thruster.
So we continued. Now it was time to clear customs... this turned out to be the fiasco of the century!
The wind was pushing us away from the dock, so I approached as I normally would and went to use the bow thruster to push the bow into place... and wouldn't you know it... it's dead! A helpful guy who knew all the tricks help us bring Dune alongside. Later I jumped in the water again to inspect what was going on with the bow thruster... one of the propellers has fallen off...eeek! Yet another expensive exercise.
After clearing customs and then getting repremanded that Darren was still on the crew list, we were ready to go. Just as we were leaving another yacht arrived with Australian's on it. They were saying that the sea state was pretty bad on the coast. Another couple who we knew from the Marina (funnily enough, the guy who gasped at our bow thruster use) had also cleared customs and had traveled out into the weather and returned.
I think Marie's niece Kary has had enough of sailing at this point :) The idea was to go back to Croatia and drop her off in Split, but because of the weather that won't be possible. So tomorrow she will be leaving Dune and traveling to Dubrovnik by bus.
I have only just cleared customs again... inwards this time. These customs guys have got sighing and shrugging down to a fine art.
So we have been given an extension of a day... hopefully the weather is better by then.
Until then we are sitting on the dock being pounded by 40 knot winds pinning us against the pier. Every fender known to man is out to help protect Dune from being damaged... but it is hitting us beam on and quite violent. There are 3 yachts sitting here waiting for things to ease up a little. We will then be taking off "back" to Kotor...sigh!
I have a feeling we will be in Montenegro longer than anticipated. I would really like to get our bow thruster fixed before leaving again.
Wednesday, September 1, 2010
Monday, August 30, 2010
Montenegro - Budva
The weather is still threatening to be nasty, so today Marie, Kary and myself left the boat and took a bus to the neighbouring harbor of Budva.
As we waited for our bus we were happy to see all the buses in the station were modern and air-conditioned. Then ours turned up. The oldest bus you have ever seen, in fact I was surprised not to see chickens run out when they opened the door. Marie didn't look very impressed by the complimentary snacks left by the previous passengers either.
The trip to Budva only took about 45 minutes so it wasn't too bad. Budva is full of restaurants and bars, and you get the feeling that it doesn't get it's groove on until well after dark.
When we got there I was really hungry, but felt like something different. So when I saw a Halal Turkishesk establishment I persuaded the girls to stop there. Big mistake, I think it is only hours before the food poisoning sets in. It was horrible. Kary ordered fries, and what arrived was unidentifiable. I'm pretty sure they didn't use hot oil to cook them.
Eventually we found a great little bar on the water to sit and relax. The girls decided to have a swim but came back almost instantly because the water wasn't the 30 degrees that they were used to ;) So I ordered us a drink... and thinking I was funny ordered Marie a long island ice tea. It was a bit strong for her and I ended up having to drink it.... excuse me if the following recollections of the day are a bit fuzzy!
Afterwards we decided to walk around the corner to another bay. The water there was crystal clear and was the best beach we have been to yet!
We are now back at the boat and the clouds are getting very dark... I think we will be in for a storm tonight.
There are a few new boats which arrived today. We are all moored stern-to, but so close it feels like we are rafted together. We have russians on one side, and a croatian family on the other.
When we arrived yesterday we thought we were going to have to retrieve the bow lines, and organize the stern lines all by ourselves, but luckily the russian guy helped us out. The bow line he gave us meant that Dune sat rafted up to his boat. Not wanting to be so close we tried to reconfigure the lines. As part of the manuvere we used the bow thruster a little. The guy was muttering something in russian, I have a feeling it wasn't words of encouragement. In retrospect it was a redundant move, but it was funny to hear the russian equivalent of "Mama Mia"!
As we waited for our bus we were happy to see all the buses in the station were modern and air-conditioned. Then ours turned up. The oldest bus you have ever seen, in fact I was surprised not to see chickens run out when they opened the door. Marie didn't look very impressed by the complimentary snacks left by the previous passengers either.
The trip to Budva only took about 45 minutes so it wasn't too bad. Budva is full of restaurants and bars, and you get the feeling that it doesn't get it's groove on until well after dark.
When we got there I was really hungry, but felt like something different. So when I saw a Halal Turkishesk establishment I persuaded the girls to stop there. Big mistake, I think it is only hours before the food poisoning sets in. It was horrible. Kary ordered fries, and what arrived was unidentifiable. I'm pretty sure they didn't use hot oil to cook them.
Eventually we found a great little bar on the water to sit and relax. The girls decided to have a swim but came back almost instantly because the water wasn't the 30 degrees that they were used to ;) So I ordered us a drink... and thinking I was funny ordered Marie a long island ice tea. It was a bit strong for her and I ended up having to drink it.... excuse me if the following recollections of the day are a bit fuzzy!
Afterwards we decided to walk around the corner to another bay. The water there was crystal clear and was the best beach we have been to yet!
We are now back at the boat and the clouds are getting very dark... I think we will be in for a storm tonight.
There are a few new boats which arrived today. We are all moored stern-to, but so close it feels like we are rafted together. We have russians on one side, and a croatian family on the other.
When we arrived yesterday we thought we were going to have to retrieve the bow lines, and organize the stern lines all by ourselves, but luckily the russian guy helped us out. The bow line he gave us meant that Dune sat rafted up to his boat. Not wanting to be so close we tried to reconfigure the lines. As part of the manuvere we used the bow thruster a little. The guy was muttering something in russian, I have a feeling it wasn't words of encouragement. In retrospect it was a redundant move, but it was funny to hear the russian equivalent of "Mama Mia"!
Wednesday, August 25, 2010
Montenegro - Kotor
We travelled south down the coast towards Montenegro. There were some nice places still left to see in Croatia, but we were not allowed to stop there as we had already cleared customs. They have a radar station keeping track of everyone to make sure you don't deviate from your course.
Eventually we crossed the border between Croatia and Montenegro. The border is a peninsula which we rounded and proceeded to the first customs port which was Zelenika. We pulled up to the customs dock, the wind had picked up a bit, so we had to round up into the wind and dock port side. The dock was quite obviously designed for cruise liners with its huge rubber fenders. But we found a nice spot nestled between them. I jumped off the boat to see customs who directed me to see the harbormaster.
After checking the ships documents we were issued with a 7 day cruising license (vignette). I then went back to the customs office. The customs office had both the port police and customs officials there. They were very friendly and started talking to me about New Zealand wine. He was speaking in a mix of english and Montenegrin (similar to Croatian), so I couldn't understand much. But I got the idea that we liked drinking lol! I bet he was angling for a free bottle of NZ wine.
He asked me where we were planning on going, and suggested that we visit Kotor.
After we cleared customs we decided to take his advice and visit Kotor.
Kotor is a town nestled on the eastern side of the main Montenegro harbor. As you progress through huge mountains appear on all sides. Houses litter the coastline but are close to the water. The height of the mountains are incredible, and dwarf the settlements below.
Kotor itself is built around a castle and it's fortifications continue up the mountain sides.
When we arrived we though we could anchor but we were directed to moor at the pier. The price was only 45 euros a night which was quite cheap compared to what we were used to. And for the first time since Rimini, we had shore power and water!!
The following day Marie and I walked up the mountain fortifications. We did it in the middle of the day which was blisteringly hot!
We ended up staying a couple of nights in Kotor, just relaxing and enjoying the scenary.
Darren left the boat to continue his adventures by land. Thanks dude, it was a blast!
The girls and I decided to take the opportunity and clean the boat before continuing.
I also mounted our EPIRB and fixed the floor boards in Darren's room.
We left Kotor and motored around to a neighbouring bay called Morinj, where we had our first swim in Montenegro.
Eventually we crossed the border between Croatia and Montenegro. The border is a peninsula which we rounded and proceeded to the first customs port which was Zelenika. We pulled up to the customs dock, the wind had picked up a bit, so we had to round up into the wind and dock port side. The dock was quite obviously designed for cruise liners with its huge rubber fenders. But we found a nice spot nestled between them. I jumped off the boat to see customs who directed me to see the harbormaster.
After checking the ships documents we were issued with a 7 day cruising license (vignette). I then went back to the customs office. The customs office had both the port police and customs officials there. They were very friendly and started talking to me about New Zealand wine. He was speaking in a mix of english and Montenegrin (similar to Croatian), so I couldn't understand much. But I got the idea that we liked drinking lol! I bet he was angling for a free bottle of NZ wine.
He asked me where we were planning on going, and suggested that we visit Kotor.
After we cleared customs we decided to take his advice and visit Kotor.
Kotor is a town nestled on the eastern side of the main Montenegro harbor. As you progress through huge mountains appear on all sides. Houses litter the coastline but are close to the water. The height of the mountains are incredible, and dwarf the settlements below.
Kotor itself is built around a castle and it's fortifications continue up the mountain sides.
When we arrived we though we could anchor but we were directed to moor at the pier. The price was only 45 euros a night which was quite cheap compared to what we were used to. And for the first time since Rimini, we had shore power and water!!
The following day Marie and I walked up the mountain fortifications. We did it in the middle of the day which was blisteringly hot!
We ended up staying a couple of nights in Kotor, just relaxing and enjoying the scenary.
Darren left the boat to continue his adventures by land. Thanks dude, it was a blast!
The girls and I decided to take the opportunity and clean the boat before continuing.
I also mounted our EPIRB and fixed the floor boards in Darren's room.
We left Kotor and motored around to a neighbouring bay called Morinj, where we had our first swim in Montenegro.
Cavtat - Clearing Customs
Today we are leaving Croatia and heading to Montenegro.
The best place to carry out exit formalities is a town further down the coast called Cavtat.
We arrived in Cavtat and decided to anchor to stock up on provisions before clearing customs.
After which we proceeded over to the customs dock. There were quite a few boats waiting, and they started to raft up to each other. There was a space available between the rafter's and the next boat which was moored stern-to. So we decided to drop anchor and back into the space. There was a guy there ready to help, so we threw him the stern lines. I pulled up the anchor a little and we were sitting nicely. Well done crew!
Clearing customs took forever! I was directed to see the port police, who then instructed me to see the harbormaster. There was a captain in the harbormasters office whose documents were not in order so I had to wait until they had sorted him out. I then went back to the customs office (port police) who then noticed that we had 3 people on our crew list, but 4 people were leaving. Kary had just joined the boat. So he then sent me back to the harbormaster, who was out to lunch! I got Kary added to the crew list and went back to the customs office.
They then cleared us to leave... Whew!
The best place to carry out exit formalities is a town further down the coast called Cavtat.
We arrived in Cavtat and decided to anchor to stock up on provisions before clearing customs.
After which we proceeded over to the customs dock. There were quite a few boats waiting, and they started to raft up to each other. There was a space available between the rafter's and the next boat which was moored stern-to. So we decided to drop anchor and back into the space. There was a guy there ready to help, so we threw him the stern lines. I pulled up the anchor a little and we were sitting nicely. Well done crew!
Clearing customs took forever! I was directed to see the port police, who then instructed me to see the harbormaster. There was a captain in the harbormasters office whose documents were not in order so I had to wait until they had sorted him out. I then went back to the customs office (port police) who then noticed that we had 3 people on our crew list, but 4 people were leaving. Kary had just joined the boat. So he then sent me back to the harbormaster, who was out to lunch! I got Kary added to the crew list and went back to the customs office.
They then cleared us to leave... Whew!
Tuesday, August 24, 2010
Dubrovnik
The last time we had visited Dubrovnik the weather wasn't good and there was no way we could anchor outside the castle in the old town.
This time the sea was calm and we found a nice spot just outside the channel entrance.
We took the tender in to have a wander around and take in the sights. Marie and I decided to do the walk around the castle wall.
As you walk around the wall you can see on one side the people bustling around inside, and outside, picturesque views of the bay. Fantastic!
After we had finished we joined Darren for a Pivo (Beer), and then had some dinner at a Irish bar of all places.
Marie left us to take a bus to the Airport to pick up Kary.
Darren and I had a few drinks and found a bar which had live jazz. It was great, I even bought their CD! (we needed music for the boat)
We made friends with a couple of guys who were visiting from Spain... real characters, who were only in Dubrovnik for the naturalist beaches. Europeans, gotta love em!
Marie and Kary turned up, and disappeared again to grab dinner. Afterwards we jumped in the tender and cruised back to the boat.
The next morning a guy arrived on a boat and let us know that our anchorage would cost 50 euros, and that we better take off. Woohoo nice guy!
This time the sea was calm and we found a nice spot just outside the channel entrance.
We took the tender in to have a wander around and take in the sights. Marie and I decided to do the walk around the castle wall.
As you walk around the wall you can see on one side the people bustling around inside, and outside, picturesque views of the bay. Fantastic!
After we had finished we joined Darren for a Pivo (Beer), and then had some dinner at a Irish bar of all places.
Marie left us to take a bus to the Airport to pick up Kary.
Darren and I had a few drinks and found a bar which had live jazz. It was great, I even bought their CD! (we needed music for the boat)
We made friends with a couple of guys who were visiting from Spain... real characters, who were only in Dubrovnik for the naturalist beaches. Europeans, gotta love em!
Marie and Kary turned up, and disappeared again to grab dinner. Afterwards we jumped in the tender and cruised back to the boat.
The next morning a guy arrived on a boat and let us know that our anchorage would cost 50 euros, and that we better take off. Woohoo nice guy!
Mljet - Ulysses Caves
After breakfast we set out to find the Ulysses caves. We had a fair idea where they were, but didn't know exactly. The caves were meant to be only accessible by boat. As we progressed it was obvious that we had gone to far, so Darren spotted a fisherman, and proceeded to take tender over to see him. Speaking no english, Darren eventually understood that the caves were back about 6km.
We turned around and eventually spotted some people sitting on rocks. If you didn't see the people, you would never know that there was anything to see. We got close and dropped the anchor... I reversed back until we were close to the rocks and jumped in to secure a stern line to the shore.
We were set, sitting right in front of the cave entrance. We jumped in with our goggles and flippers and swam through the cave.
As you swam in it didn't look very spectacular, but as you neared the end of the cave there were millions of fish swimming all around you.
When you turned around the true beauty of the place revealed itself. The sunlight from the entrance of the cave shone through, and the colour of the water took your breath away, it was like something you would see in a movie. Absolutely stunning!
We spent the afternoon there swimming, diving.. and the odd halyard swing.
It was then time to head to Dubrovnik about 30nm down the coast. Today we were picking up Kary, Marie's niece who was arriving from Brazil.
We turned around and eventually spotted some people sitting on rocks. If you didn't see the people, you would never know that there was anything to see. We got close and dropped the anchor... I reversed back until we were close to the rocks and jumped in to secure a stern line to the shore.
We were set, sitting right in front of the cave entrance. We jumped in with our goggles and flippers and swam through the cave.
As you swam in it didn't look very spectacular, but as you neared the end of the cave there were millions of fish swimming all around you.
When you turned around the true beauty of the place revealed itself. The sunlight from the entrance of the cave shone through, and the colour of the water took your breath away, it was like something you would see in a movie. Absolutely stunning!
We spent the afternoon there swimming, diving.. and the odd halyard swing.
It was then time to head to Dubrovnik about 30nm down the coast. Today we were picking up Kary, Marie's niece who was arriving from Brazil.
Monday, August 23, 2010
Mljet
This afternoon we left Korcula and travelled across to the island of Mljet. Darren wanted to see the blue caves on the opposite side of the island. Normally you would avoid that coast because there is no shelter and is very exposed, but as luck
had it the weather was very good and our good old Navtex told us that the outlook for the following 24 hours was excellent.
We entered the bay where we intended to spend the night, and according to both the chart and the chart plotter there was enough depth to get around the corner into a smaller lagoon. I really didn't trust it, and decided to anchor and swim over to see how deep the inlet really was.
As I predicted it was shallow, I could stand up to my waist! So we stayed where we were.
Darren decided to take the tender around to a neighbouring bay. On the charts it said the area was prohibited and you couldn't enter. But he wasn't concerned and took off, he eventually returned with news that he had found a small village and he had made arrangements for us to have dinner there later that evening.
We all piled into the tender and set out for dinner. I have no idea how Darren found the inlet because it was hidden. The rocks on both sides camouflaged the entrance and it just looked like the bay continued around. As you got closer the entrance appeared. It felt like we were in a pirate movie! There was a big sign with a propeller with a cross through it symbolizing that no engines were allowed, but Darren had seen fishermen going up the inlet with their engines, so we did the same.
We pulled into a tiny village, and had a great dinner surrounded by wildlife. Next to the table were bushes covered in flowers with tiny hummingbird's flying around savoring the nectar. Huge moths were flying around (you could mistake them for birds!), one of which got stuck in the netting surrounding the light above the table, it fluttered with futility covering us and our wine glasses with the dust from it's wings.
Not a huge fan of seafood, I had grilled squid which was fantastic. The prices here were far better than anywhere we had been before.
The best nights we have had have been at places off the beaten track, away from the glitzy tourist spots.
had it the weather was very good and our good old Navtex told us that the outlook for the following 24 hours was excellent.
We entered the bay where we intended to spend the night, and according to both the chart and the chart plotter there was enough depth to get around the corner into a smaller lagoon. I really didn't trust it, and decided to anchor and swim over to see how deep the inlet really was.
As I predicted it was shallow, I could stand up to my waist! So we stayed where we were.
Darren decided to take the tender around to a neighbouring bay. On the charts it said the area was prohibited and you couldn't enter. But he wasn't concerned and took off, he eventually returned with news that he had found a small village and he had made arrangements for us to have dinner there later that evening.
We all piled into the tender and set out for dinner. I have no idea how Darren found the inlet because it was hidden. The rocks on both sides camouflaged the entrance and it just looked like the bay continued around. As you got closer the entrance appeared. It felt like we were in a pirate movie! There was a big sign with a propeller with a cross through it symbolizing that no engines were allowed, but Darren had seen fishermen going up the inlet with their engines, so we did the same.
We pulled into a tiny village, and had a great dinner surrounded by wildlife. Next to the table were bushes covered in flowers with tiny hummingbird's flying around savoring the nectar. Huge moths were flying around (you could mistake them for birds!), one of which got stuck in the netting surrounding the light above the table, it fluttered with futility covering us and our wine glasses with the dust from it's wings.
Not a huge fan of seafood, I had grilled squid which was fantastic. The prices here were far better than anywhere we had been before.
The best nights we have had have been at places off the beaten track, away from the glitzy tourist spots.
Sunday, August 22, 2010
Korcula
The next stop was Korcula (on the island of.. you guessed it "Korula"). As we entered the bay where we intended on anchoring, the wind picked up and as we were getting into position to lay it down a gust of wind pushed us side on and pushed
us towards the shallows... I had to power between two anchored yachts who looked a bit concerned... I have it all under control lads!
Straight away we laid it down and were set for the night. Almost immediately the port authority visited us to retrieve mooring fees... agh!
Korcula was nice, but the problem is "every" town that we visit is beautiful, you almost become numb to it.
I found some art for sale which I loved, but that is a bit of a luxury. We are on a budget after all!
us towards the shallows... I had to power between two anchored yachts who looked a bit concerned... I have it all under control lads!
Straight away we laid it down and were set for the night. Almost immediately the port authority visited us to retrieve mooring fees... agh!
Korcula was nice, but the problem is "every" town that we visit is beautiful, you almost become numb to it.
I found some art for sale which I loved, but that is a bit of a luxury. We are on a budget after all!
Saturday, August 21, 2010
Hvar
It is hard to believe that after all the time we have spent in Croatia that we had not yet been to Hvar! We had been around it many times, but had never stopped.
Hvar is the famous "postcard" town on the island of "Hvar". We have had good luck with anchoring, we normally only have to anchor once, on the odd occasion twice. This was no exception, but this time we were asked to move so that we didn't obstruct traffic. No problem, we dropped the anchor in a new spot, it took a bit to catch but we were set.
Other boats didn't have quite as much luck, and spent literally hours trying to anchor. At one point someone thought they were ok, then when the wind changed they hit another boat who didn't have quite as much chain out as them.
It was all very entertaining.
Hvar is a bustling town with thousands of people walking around, and hundred's of bar and restaurants. Sitting in a commanding position on a hill overlooking the town is a castle. At night it is lit up, and the scene is breathtaking.
The number of boats coming in and out of the harbor made it difficult to sleep (not to mention the music). The last straw was a ferry powering out of the bay in the morning whose wake keeled us right over... it was time to get up!
Hvar is the famous "postcard" town on the island of "Hvar". We have had good luck with anchoring, we normally only have to anchor once, on the odd occasion twice. This was no exception, but this time we were asked to move so that we didn't obstruct traffic. No problem, we dropped the anchor in a new spot, it took a bit to catch but we were set.
Other boats didn't have quite as much luck, and spent literally hours trying to anchor. At one point someone thought they were ok, then when the wind changed they hit another boat who didn't have quite as much chain out as them.
It was all very entertaining.
Hvar is a bustling town with thousands of people walking around, and hundred's of bar and restaurants. Sitting in a commanding position on a hill overlooking the town is a castle. At night it is lit up, and the scene is breathtaking.
The number of boats coming in and out of the harbor made it difficult to sleep (not to mention the music). The last straw was a ferry powering out of the bay in the morning whose wake keeled us right over... it was time to get up!
Thursday, August 19, 2010
Split - Spinut - Kastela
Today we travelled to Split. Having anchored in Split harbor before I knew that because of the large passenger ferries the boat would be rolling a lot, so we went around the corner to a small bay called "Spinut".
The wind was quite strong, so I stayed with the boat while Darren and Marie went ashore to go into Split.
Marie had booked us both in to see a dentist at 8.30am the following morning.
I picked up my temporary visa from Nina at Bach Yachting, the broker we purchased the boat from. It ended up being a bit of a reunion because the skipper who helped us export/import the boat turned up while we were there.
We visited a Marina shop who directed us to their Mercury service agent, who luckily was located in Spinut! After we got back to the boat we moved to the next bay and I rowed ashore with the engine. The service agent was actually an old guy out the
back of a garage. But he was very helpful, and fixed the outboard throttle for 250 kuna ($65 NZD), including a full service!
After we picked the outboard up, we set off for Marina Kastela which was across the bay. The charter company (Sail Croatia) who used to own the boat had a replacement shower unit for the boat for us to pick up.
Marie and I took the opportunity to visit Christopher and his wife, unfortunately they were not in the marina.
I installed the new deck shower unit, and we now have hot/cold water to rinse off after a swim. Luxury!
Darren found that his shower pump was not working, so we worked on pulling it out. I purchased a new one from one of the Marine shops in Split, and didn't think to look at the price.... $750 NZD OUCH!!
We anchored just outside of Marina Kastela. It was friday night so all of the charter boats were coming back from there week at sea. Each charter company has over 30 yachts, and there are 5 or more charter companies in the Marina.
So you can imagine how many boats we saw coming in, it was very entertaining. Especially the boat with the girl who stripped off on the bow as they were coming in!
The following day we anchored in Split harbor, did a few errands, and had lunch at the famous "Black Cat" cafe, which Rob and Ruth found during their stay! Mmmmm delicious.
The wind was quite strong, so I stayed with the boat while Darren and Marie went ashore to go into Split.
Marie had booked us both in to see a dentist at 8.30am the following morning.
I picked up my temporary visa from Nina at Bach Yachting, the broker we purchased the boat from. It ended up being a bit of a reunion because the skipper who helped us export/import the boat turned up while we were there.
We visited a Marina shop who directed us to their Mercury service agent, who luckily was located in Spinut! After we got back to the boat we moved to the next bay and I rowed ashore with the engine. The service agent was actually an old guy out the
back of a garage. But he was very helpful, and fixed the outboard throttle for 250 kuna ($65 NZD), including a full service!
After we picked the outboard up, we set off for Marina Kastela which was across the bay. The charter company (Sail Croatia) who used to own the boat had a replacement shower unit for the boat for us to pick up.
Marie and I took the opportunity to visit Christopher and his wife, unfortunately they were not in the marina.
I installed the new deck shower unit, and we now have hot/cold water to rinse off after a swim. Luxury!
Darren found that his shower pump was not working, so we worked on pulling it out. I purchased a new one from one of the Marine shops in Split, and didn't think to look at the price.... $750 NZD OUCH!!
We anchored just outside of Marina Kastela. It was friday night so all of the charter boats were coming back from there week at sea. Each charter company has over 30 yachts, and there are 5 or more charter companies in the Marina.
So you can imagine how many boats we saw coming in, it was very entertaining. Especially the boat with the girl who stripped off on the bow as they were coming in!
The following day we anchored in Split harbor, did a few errands, and had lunch at the famous "Black Cat" cafe, which Rob and Ruth found during their stay! Mmmmm delicious.
Wednesday, August 18, 2010
Primosten
Our next stop was Primosten which is a town on the mainland. We anchored in a prime position right beside the beach. We thought that we were obstructing the channel a little, but then other boats came in and anchored around us. What trend setters!
A few yachts wanted to enter the marina but there wasn't room, but they still accommodated them by rafting them all up together at the end of the pier stern-to against the rocks... eeek! No one really cares with charter yachts, which made me think about what people used to do with Dune... I quickly thought about something else!
We spent the afternoon swimming and watching the boats come in and out of the harbor.
We rowed ashore and had dinner at a seafood restaurant. It was very pleasant! The town is known for 2 things, it's lack of rainfall, and its Babic wine. Fearing dehydration I quickly ordered a bottle of wine.
A few yachts wanted to enter the marina but there wasn't room, but they still accommodated them by rafting them all up together at the end of the pier stern-to against the rocks... eeek! No one really cares with charter yachts, which made me think about what people used to do with Dune... I quickly thought about something else!
We spent the afternoon swimming and watching the boats come in and out of the harbor.
We rowed ashore and had dinner at a seafood restaurant. It was very pleasant! The town is known for 2 things, it's lack of rainfall, and its Babic wine. Fearing dehydration I quickly ordered a bottle of wine.
Tuesday, August 17, 2010
Dugi Otok - Mala Proversa
The next port of call was to be Sali, but when we got there the marina was full and there wasn't anywhere sheltered to anchor so we continued on to the southern end of the island to a bay called Mala Proversa.
The bay was very quiet (until we sparked up the generator that is) with only a few boats anchored there. The water was crystal clear, and there were plenty of small fish swimming around the boat.
In the morning Darren shouted for me to get up, Mala Proversa was part of a national park, and a park ranger was collecting mooring fees from the surrounding boats (whose owners were also shouting... but at the ranger).
So we slowly turned on the motor, pulled up the anchor (being sure not to look at the ranger) and departed. At first it looked like the ranger was following us, but he then changed course. Whew!
The bay was very quiet (until we sparked up the generator that is) with only a few boats anchored there. The water was crystal clear, and there were plenty of small fish swimming around the boat.
In the morning Darren shouted for me to get up, Mala Proversa was part of a national park, and a park ranger was collecting mooring fees from the surrounding boats (whose owners were also shouting... but at the ranger).
So we slowly turned on the motor, pulled up the anchor (being sure not to look at the ranger) and departed. At first it looked like the ranger was following us, but he then changed course. Whew!
Monday, August 16, 2010
Dugi Otok - Bozava
We left Mari Lozenj and started heading down the coast. Darren wanted to visit a place called Bozava, on the island of Dugi Otok. There was a sizable ocean swell coming through with a cross wind so we had to deal with beam seas which was a little uncomfortable.
Eventually I decided to duck behind an island to avoid the swell. It was going to take us a little longer, but the journey would be far more enjoyable.
Darren had a sleep for a few hours, and came up on our approach to Bozava. We anchored 200 metres from the township. After a quick dip we piled into the tender to see what Bozava had to offer.
Seafood in Croatia is insanely expensive, and this place was no exception. We found a restaurant on the dock, they didn't have any tables outside, so they grabbed a table and placed it on the boardwalk for us. Fantastic!
After a satisfying meal, we jumped in the tender and eased our way back to the boat, for a good nights sleep.
Eventually I decided to duck behind an island to avoid the swell. It was going to take us a little longer, but the journey would be far more enjoyable.
Darren had a sleep for a few hours, and came up on our approach to Bozava. We anchored 200 metres from the township. After a quick dip we piled into the tender to see what Bozava had to offer.
Seafood in Croatia is insanely expensive, and this place was no exception. We found a restaurant on the dock, they didn't have any tables outside, so they grabbed a table and placed it on the boardwalk for us. Fantastic!
After a satisfying meal, we jumped in the tender and eased our way back to the boat, for a good nights sleep.
Friday, August 13, 2010
Mari Losenj
We arrived in Mari Losenj an outer island of southern Istria at 6pm. The port was full of boats and the Marina was overflowing. Our pilot guide indicated that the customs office was in the main township, so we backed up to the dock and I jumped off with our papers. Darren and Marie circled in the bay until I got back.
Again finding the port authorities proved difficult, and the tourist office directed me to the wrong building.
I got back on the boat, and we decided to anchor until we could figure out where to go. While anchoring a police boat went by twice. I waved at them frantically but they weren't interested in coming over to help.
We went ashore (which is a big no no) to have a meal. We found a restaurant owned by a couple of brothers. Each of the brothers obviously thought the other brother had taken our order because everyone else was served but us. Eventually we got our meals and some wine, contented we went back to the boat.
The next morning I went ashore and found the "real" harbormasters office. They told me where the customs office was and said we had to see them first. So we pulled up the anchor and docked at the customs pier. There was a little confusion about Marie's Visa, but after showing them that she had already been in Croatia a month earlier, he seemed content to let us in.
The next step was to go and see the harbormaster, which was very straight forward because we already had a valid cruising licence (Vignette) and had already paid our tourist tax from our previous stay.
We tried to start the outboard engine, which if you remember was lost and then recovered after a storm in Italy. It wouldn't start, and after taking it to pieces found that the throttle had broken. Until it was fixed we could only row... luckily we had Darren :)
We stayed in Mari Losenj for 3 days just chilling out.
All this time I was unable to use my new credit card because the BNZ would not put a PIN on it. They insisted that I didn't need one and that I could just sign for purchases. But all terminals in Europe require a PIN for cards with chips on them! After 8 calls to BNZ, they conceded and directed me to talk to Visa International who sent me a temporary visa, which would arrive in Split in a few days.
Again finding the port authorities proved difficult, and the tourist office directed me to the wrong building.
I got back on the boat, and we decided to anchor until we could figure out where to go. While anchoring a police boat went by twice. I waved at them frantically but they weren't interested in coming over to help.
We went ashore (which is a big no no) to have a meal. We found a restaurant owned by a couple of brothers. Each of the brothers obviously thought the other brother had taken our order because everyone else was served but us. Eventually we got our meals and some wine, contented we went back to the boat.
The next morning I went ashore and found the "real" harbormasters office. They told me where the customs office was and said we had to see them first. So we pulled up the anchor and docked at the customs pier. There was a little confusion about Marie's Visa, but after showing them that she had already been in Croatia a month earlier, he seemed content to let us in.
The next step was to go and see the harbormaster, which was very straight forward because we already had a valid cruising licence (Vignette) and had already paid our tourist tax from our previous stay.
We tried to start the outboard engine, which if you remember was lost and then recovered after a storm in Italy. It wouldn't start, and after taking it to pieces found that the throttle had broken. Until it was fixed we could only row... luckily we had Darren :)
We stayed in Mari Losenj for 3 days just chilling out.
All this time I was unable to use my new credit card because the BNZ would not put a PIN on it. They insisted that I didn't need one and that I could just sign for purchases. But all terminals in Europe require a PIN for cards with chips on them! After 8 calls to BNZ, they conceded and directed me to talk to Visa International who sent me a temporary visa, which would arrive in Split in a few days.
Adriatic Crossing
To escape the eastern coast of Italy we decided to cross the Adriatic Sea back to Croatia. Marie's niece Kary was going to join us in Dubrovnik on the 24th August, and we still had 12 days left on our Croatian Visas.
Darren is half Croatian, so it was a great opportunity for him to see his "homeland" by sea.
We left Rimini at 6am, and headed out across the Adriatic Sea. The weather was good, and we were running with the wind most of the way across. The forecast said that there were storms following us, so not to be caught out I decided to keep the motor on.
The trip across took us 12 hours. Croatia welcomed us with thundershowers but it was great to be back!
Darren is half Croatian, so it was a great opportunity for him to see his "homeland" by sea.
We left Rimini at 6am, and headed out across the Adriatic Sea. The weather was good, and we were running with the wind most of the way across. The forecast said that there were storms following us, so not to be caught out I decided to keep the motor on.
The trip across took us 12 hours. Croatia welcomed us with thundershowers but it was great to be back!
Thursday, August 12, 2010
Leaving Rimini - Customs Fiasco
Darren had joined us, my new passport and credit card had arrived, so we were ready to leave Rimini!
But leaving was easier said than done, first we needed to clear customs. Unfortunately for us finding someone to stamp our passports proved to be difficult. Italy has 6 different arms of the Police, each directing us to go and see one of the others.
We must have walked 10Km's visiting all of the officiaries.
So we visited:
1. Coastguard
2. Police (Carabinieri)
3. Police (Guardia di Finanza)
4. Police (Polizia di Stato)
5. City Council
6. Police (Polizia di Stato - Immigration Department)
7. Harbormaster Office (who told us to go to the Airport!)
Finally we gave up, and stopped for lunch. We went back to the Marina, and notified them that we would be staying another night. They were surprised to see us, "You haven't left yet?".
The girl behind the counter was Brazilian and was incredibly helpful. She made a few phone calls and asked us when we would like to leave, I said 5am the following morning. So she arranged for customs to meet us at the boat at 1am!
I stayed up to meet them, Darren made his best effort, but faded and slept through the customs check.
So we were now cleared to leave Italy! Whew!
But leaving was easier said than done, first we needed to clear customs. Unfortunately for us finding someone to stamp our passports proved to be difficult. Italy has 6 different arms of the Police, each directing us to go and see one of the others.
We must have walked 10Km's visiting all of the officiaries.
So we visited:
1. Coastguard
2. Police (Carabinieri)
3. Police (Guardia di Finanza)
4. Police (Polizia di Stato)
5. City Council
6. Police (Polizia di Stato - Immigration Department)
7. Harbormaster Office (who told us to go to the Airport!)
Finally we gave up, and stopped for lunch. We went back to the Marina, and notified them that we would be staying another night. They were surprised to see us, "You haven't left yet?".
The girl behind the counter was Brazilian and was incredibly helpful. She made a few phone calls and asked us when we would like to leave, I said 5am the following morning. So she arranged for customs to meet us at the boat at 1am!
I stayed up to meet them, Darren made his best effort, but faded and slept through the customs check.
So we were now cleared to leave Italy! Whew!
Thursday, July 29, 2010
Rome stole my heart, and my wallet
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Because Joanne was flying back to New Zealand, Marie and I decided to go to Rome to see her off... and make sure she didn't get lost!
So we caught a bus from Rimini which took 5.5 hours to cross from the east coast to the west coast of Italy.
After we checked into our hotel we decided to catch a few of the
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local attractions. Rome is breathtaking, the scale of the buildings and monuments is incredible.Unfortunately on the second day my wallet was stolen on the subway, including my passport and credit card. So we now have to wait in Rimini until a new passport and card arrive. I found out that getting a replacement passport while overseas is not an easy matter. Luckily the NZ Embassy in Rome helped out. Apparently I was the 13th NZer who had their passport stolen in Rome in the last 2 weeks! Amazing!
It was sad to see Jo get on the plane. The boat will not be the same without you. You will be missed!
Sunday, July 18, 2010
Perfect Storm
18th July
It just gets more challenging...
Gale warning, extreme attention, sea state ' 7' (6-9m waves)
I was woken up and ordered to put on my PFD. It had been another rocky night, getting progressively worse. Brett had woken early and prepared Dune for a bit of rough weather. I was feeling a little under the weather myself. Made my way up on deck and lay down for a while and tried to go back to sleep
0820 (1st pic) Brett lengthened the rope on the tender, as the waves were taking it under the boat and spitting it out again. At this stage, even though the photo taken doesn't justify it, it would of been too risky to attempt to bring it back up on board
(2nd pic) Not long after, we lost our tender and outboard when a large wave hit us. Tender out of sight behind a wave
Conditions prevented us to make an attempt to retrieve it, we were in shallow waters with waves pounding on us
The waves were coming in hard and growing on us. There was huge noise from the bow, I thought the genoa had collapsed. Brett caught sight of the anchor chain been lifted off the windlass and the chain was being freely reeled out
From that moment on it was all go. Brett flew below deck flicked on all necessary switches and yelled, "we've got to get the anchor up"
I turned around to find Marie making her way up to the bow to weigh anchor, the waves were breaking over her. At this stage we had become a submarine. I harnessed up and made my way to Marie with one for her. Marie was having difficulty bringing up the anchor. Before I could get harnessed up, I witnessed her go under a big wave. Hanging on for her life with one hand and anchor remote in the other. She later shared with us that she had near choked on sea water. Her black and blue knees were a tell tale sign of what she took on
To make the situation a little more challenging the anchor came up the wrong way round, and to avoid being dragged into shore we had the motor forward. Being lifted and dumped by the waves the bow received a few scratches from the anchor
Underway was breath taking, the waves just kept getting bigger and bigger. Dune was riding the huge crests and then was being dumped into the troughs, with a mighty big crash. I was given the job of looking out for cray pots and fish farms.
Both Marie and I had our stomachs in our throats. I found standing on the seat looking over the spray hood with the wind in my face some relief. It actually felt like I was surfing, I got a good work out on my legs too
We watched multiple thunder storms work their way around us. Luckily they were traveling South East and away from us
1230 Next 2 photos. Out of the worst of it. The sea had tried to dictate our path, but we made it to a port in Rimini. Where we literally surfed in down a narrow channel with concrete blocks on either side to take shelter. The water was still choppy, we moored along side the fuel station. I couldn't get off the boat quick enough and kissed the ground we stood on! Brett and Marie took off together to sort a mooring for Dune in the marina. I couldn't bring myself to step back on the boat for now. Below deck was a disaster, it looked like it had been hit by a tornado
Along the way I caught a glimpse of Brett scanning his rough weather manual, boat on auto pilot
There was a silence that day. I don't think a word was uttered during the whole experince, we were just all focused on survival and making it to calmer seas
1700 Safe and sound, moored in Marina Rimini
Would just like to use this opportunity to say, "I owe you my life bro"
Brett handled the whole experience extremely well, all that text book theory put into practice ;-)
Brett took the crew out for a combined breakfast, lunch & dinner! Where we reflected over our ordeal
We watched multiple thunder storms work their way around us. Luckily they were traveling South East and away from us
1230 Next 2 photos. Out of the worst of it. The sea had tried to dictate our path, but we made it to a port in Rimini. Where we literally surfed in down a narrow channel with concrete blocks on either side to take shelter. The water was still choppy, we moored along side the fuel station. I couldn't get off the boat quick enough and kissed the ground we stood on! Brett and Marie took off together to sort a mooring for Dune in the marina. I couldn't bring myself to step back on the boat for now. Below deck was a disaster, it looked like it had been hit by a tornado
Along the way I caught a glimpse of Brett scanning his rough weather manual, boat on auto pilot
There was a silence that day. I don't think a word was uttered during the whole experince, we were just all focused on survival and making it to calmer seas
1700 Safe and sound, moored in Marina Rimini
Would just like to use this opportunity to say, "I owe you my life bro"
Brett handled the whole experience extremely well, all that text book theory put into practice ;-)
Brett took the crew out for a combined breakfast, lunch & dinner! Where we reflected over our ordeal
Later we got to hear that this sheltered marina was hit by 40+ knot winds earlier that day
Long hot running showers all round!! Woohoo
Wednesday, July 14, 2010
Tequila Sunrise
14th July
Just like to say thanks to our followers for being so patient and waiting for me to put posts in. Grabbed this opportunity to put some updates in. I'll be working backwards so scroll back for delayed posts. Cheers Jo
We made it to Italy. We are now anchored outside the harbour of Venice
The coastline is very shallow here. The storm that past through last night, which I'll get into detail later, left us with a mine field. The sea was just a slush of seaweed, logs and toys! We managed to pick up a couple of really nice lilos along the way, we left the soccer balls and other blow ups behind
Venice harbour was an interesting experience, it was very choppy and narrow with lots of dredging going on. Ferries galore coming in and out, sailing boats, small fishing boats with lines out, kids riding the bow, the list goes on. And by the way...what road code!!
It was such a hair raising experience. The sides where very shallow, it was hard case seeing small boats moored with people wading in and out to them. After making our way in, which was like playing dodgems we made a decision to make a quick turn around and get the beeb out of there
Now out of the habour and chaos, we took a 15 minute anchor. Brett remembering to breathe, pulled out the charts and reassessed the situation
So here we are, a little further up the coastline. Anchored 1 km from shore in a depth of 10 meters
Brett and I took the dingy into shore. We walked around to the other side to check out the harbour here, as the charts aren't that great
Tomorrow we attempt to make our way round the tee-pee markers and hopefully anchor next to a small islet
Brett made comment that it reminds him of the Kaipara Harbour. Its shallow and full of mud, not to mention seaweed and kelp. All that's missing are the sharks!!
Tuesday, July 13, 2010
Thunder & Lightening @ 40 knots
13th August
1745 Departed Trieste, Italy
Whole day had been overcast and hazy
2040 Arrived in the middle of nowhere
The coastline was very shallow, we made a decision to anchor not far from a run way of beacons, 1 nautical mile from shore. It actually felt like we were in the middle of nowhere, but there was no way we could get in any closer. Our depth was 9 meters
As Marie cooked as up a storm, we had no idea their was one actually brewing behind us
We sat on deck eating our dinner, reflecting over our day
On the horizon(stern-to) was a display of lightening sheets and clapping thunder
Brett had no longer made comment on how the waters had calmed, as we had swells along the way...the calm before the storm!
Then there was a long whistle in the air and from the bow we were hit by gale @40 knots
It was so sudden, every thing went flying. It was grab and stow
The dingy which we had been towing with outboard, was almost lifted up out of the water
Brett managed to retie it closer to the stern, but in these conditions it was to risky to attempt to get it back up on deck
The boat was being hit hard by big waves, lightening overhead and thunder clapping in our ears Somehow we managed to get the bimini down without falling overboard
It was the most terrifying experience. We were ordered to put on our PDF's and harnesses if on deck
The worst of the storm was over within two hours. But we had to deal with the after shocks all night
Don't think Brett got much sleep. I managed to crawl under my blanket and ride it out. I woke the next morning in a fetal position, with my life jacket and my grab bag in hand
When morning arrived it was just another day in paradise. Sea calm with a hazy atmosphere
1745 Departed Trieste, Italy
Whole day had been overcast and hazy
2040 Arrived in the middle of nowhere
The coastline was very shallow, we made a decision to anchor not far from a run way of beacons, 1 nautical mile from shore. It actually felt like we were in the middle of nowhere, but there was no way we could get in any closer. Our depth was 9 meters
As Marie cooked as up a storm, we had no idea their was one actually brewing behind us
We sat on deck eating our dinner, reflecting over our day
On the horizon(stern-to) was a display of lightening sheets and clapping thunder
Brett had no longer made comment on how the waters had calmed, as we had swells along the way...the calm before the storm!
Then there was a long whistle in the air and from the bow we were hit by gale @40 knots
It was so sudden, every thing went flying. It was grab and stow
The dingy which we had been towing with outboard, was almost lifted up out of the water
Brett managed to retie it closer to the stern, but in these conditions it was to risky to attempt to get it back up on deck
The boat was being hit hard by big waves, lightening overhead and thunder clapping in our ears Somehow we managed to get the bimini down without falling overboard
It was the most terrifying experience. We were ordered to put on our PDF's and harnesses if on deck
The worst of the storm was over within two hours. But we had to deal with the after shocks all night
Don't think Brett got much sleep. I managed to crawl under my blanket and ride it out. I woke the next morning in a fetal position, with my life jacket and my grab bag in hand
When morning arrived it was just another day in paradise. Sea calm with a hazy atmosphere
Monday, July 12, 2010
Sunday, July 4, 2010
Destination Italy
Destination Italy
Relying on Hotspots and generator to enter posts
I'm a little behind, so please bear with me
we are on the move...
I'm a little behind, so please bear with me
we are on the move...
Marina Kastela
17th June
1200 Departed Marina Kastela
Goodbye to our home of 2 months
Motoring
Destination: Dubronik
1300 Arrived at Split
Diesel fill
Anchored in harbour
Waited on delivery for new batteries, generator & petrol container
Pizza delivered via dingy
1645 Departed split
Motoring
Had sightings of dolphins along the way
2010 Arrived at Bol
Anchored
Swim, dinner and watched our 1st movie using generator
1200 Departed Marina Kastela
Goodbye to our home of 2 months
Motoring
Destination: Dubronik
1300 Arrived at Split
Diesel fill
Anchored in harbour
Waited on delivery for new batteries, generator & petrol container
Pizza delivered via dingy
1645 Departed split
Motoring
Had sightings of dolphins along the way
2010 Arrived at Bol
Anchored
Swim, dinner and watched our 1st movie using generator
Thursday, June 17, 2010
Trip Report
17th June
Date: 17/06/10
Leaving Time: 10:00
Leaving from: Marina Kastela
Going To: Dubronik
Return Time: 20/06/10, late afternoon
POB: Brett, Marie, Joanne, Rob, Ruth
Krka River, Skradin
13th June
Brett and Marie took the ferry up to falls
Rob and I cleaned the boat down
Dinner on mainland
Back Street Boys
13th June
Pics: Our fellow neighbours having the time of their life
Ruth & I trying to keep up with the play
National Park Krka
12th JuneRob, Ruth & I caught the ferry from Skradin to Krka falls
It was well worth the trip
We followed a track up, around and back down
There where little stalls along the way selling
dried figs & leaves on kebabs sticks,olive oils & wares
Half way up the hill where trout
Brett & Marie took a trip up the following day
they dined in a little restaurant along with a snake!
(proof pending)
Trout was the dish of the day
Pied Piper
12th June
hey come on, babe
Follow me
I'm the Pied Piper
Follow me
hey come on, babe
Follow me
I'm the Pied Piper
Follow me
Pic: Brett heading into Skradin to pick up the troops, who had caught a ferry up to Krka national park for the afternoon
Wednesday, June 16, 2010
Krka River, Skradin
10th June
Bus trip into Spilt to the Harbour master, Rob & Ruth were added to the crew list
Paid the new environmental tax!
Got supplies for the trip, best purchase of the day was our snorkling gear
Lunch on deck
Clean up & stow away
Only way to get a breeze was to turn the engines on and take off
1715 Departed Marina Kastela
Engine day
Extremely hot day
1940 Arrived Inland Brac, Milna
Anchored, engines off...jump in
Halyard swings all round
Dining on deck
11th June
Breakfast on deck
Lather up & jump in
1130 Departed Island Brac, Milna
Destination: Rogoznica
Got some good sailing in, 9.2 knots
We were accompanied along the way with a school of fish that followed us for some time, and caught sight of dolphins. Photo's taken were a near miss
I put out a lure but these fish were too smart, I even supplied the berly bombs!!
1830 Arrived Rogoznica
Anchored
0900 Departed Rogoznica
1250 Arrived Skradin
Anchored in fresh water river
Lunch on mainland
Rob, Ruth and I caught a ferry up to Krka falls
Dinner on mainland
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